绉丝纱在中国古代纺织品修复中的应用
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(中国丝绸博物馆,浙江杭州 310002)

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王淑娟(1973—),女,2005年硕士毕业于浙江理工大学服装设计与工程专业,副研究馆员,Email:wangsj08@163.com

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Methods of using silk crepeline in the conservation of ancient Chinese textiles
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(China National Silk Museum, Hangzhou 310002, China)

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    摘要:

    Crepeline是一种较为薄透的平纹丝织物,在欧美等国的纺织品文物保护中应用较为广泛,尤其对于脆弱丝织品的保护具有非常好的效果。近年来,此种织物在中国纺织品修复中的应用也日渐趋多。由于中国市场上无处购买该材料,为了降低成本并满足中国古代纺织品的修复需求,中国丝绸博物馆与浙江理工大学合作研发了该种修复用织物——绉丝纱。本研究介绍所研发绉丝纱的工艺参数和性能特点,及针对不同类别的中国古代纺织品,采用绉丝纱作为修复材料时的使用方法。即通常将其包覆于纺织品文物表面,以针线缝合的方式固定,并注意缝合时尽量减少针线穿过文物的次数。其包覆的形式,按包覆范围可分为整体包覆与局部包覆;按包覆方式可分为单面包覆、双面包覆及叠加包覆等。研究表明,绉丝纱包覆是一种值得推广的纺织品保护方法,尤其是对已无法承受针线过多穿缝力度的纺织品。如能够解决绉丝纱裁剪后的边缘脱线等细部问题,将会更加扩大其使用的范围。

    Abstract:

    Silk crepeline is a thin and transparent silk fabric having a plain weave. It is often used in Europe and America for textile conservation, especially for fragile objects. China in recent years has witnessed the introduction of and the ever increasingly wide usage of crepeline. But the product has never been locally made in China, so the China National Silk Museum has cooperated with Zhejiang Science and Technology University to research, to develop, and to produce this fabric. This paper introduces the characteristics of the developed fabric and the ways to use it in the conservation of ancient Chinese textiles. This fabric usually covers the ancient textiles and is sewed to the objects with stitches. There are two ways of covering depending on the state of preservation of ancient textiles. One is to cover the whole object, and the other is to cover the damaged area only. And there are three methods to use the silk crepeline in layers. One is to sandwich the ancient fabric between an overlay of silk crepeline. The second is to use only one layer of silk crepeline on the top and to use a support fabric that is the similar to the ancient object. The third is to use more than one layer of crepeline in different colors as the support fabric in order to get a color close to that of the ancient textile.The use of crepeline is a very good textile conservation method.It is especially good for the treatment of objects that are too fragile to be stitched. One problem of this method is the loss of edge threads after the final cut.

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王淑娟.绉丝纱在中国古代纺织品修复中的应用[J].文物保护与考古科学,2016,28(2):67-72.

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  • 收稿日期:2015-04-20
  • 最后修改日期:2015-08-27
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  • 在线发布日期: 2016-07-13
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