Abstract:Extraction is the first step of dye analysis on ancient textiles. The methods and reagents to extract dyes from silk were studied. Nine commonly used ancient plants dyes were chosen to dye modern silk samples following ancient procedures. The selected dye sources were Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia cordifolia, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, Gardenia jasminoides, Sophora japonica, Curcuma longa, Phellodendron amurense, gallnut, shell of chestnut and indigo. Extraction solvents tested include DMF, acetic acid, methanol, ethanol, acetone, ethyl acetate, petroleum ether, sodium bicarbonate solution (pH=10), HCl/methanol/H2O (v/v/v=2:1:1), 3M HCl/ethyl acetate (v/v=1:1) and 10% sulfuric acid/methanol (v/v=1:1). Furthermore, the dyed silk samples were aged and extracted to compare these extracts with extracts of unaged silk samples. Results showed that HCl/methanol, DMF, and acetic acid did well in extraction. However, HCl/methanol hydrolyzed the silk fiber greatly. Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia cordifolia, Lithospermum erythrorhizon, Gardenia jasminoides, Curcuma longa and Phellodendron amurense dyed silk samples could be extracted using methanol, 10% sulfuric acid/ethyl acetate and 2% sodium bicarbonate solution. Curcuma longa and Phellodendron amurense dyed samples could also be extracted using ethanol and water. Dyes with mordant could be extracted using EDTA/DMF, which did little damage to silk. Gallnut and shell of chestnut dyed silk could be extracted by water or 70% ethanol. Indigo could be extracted by pyridine, pyridine/water, DMF and acetic acid. The dyes on heataged silk had undergone some oxidation and crosslinking processes, thus the extraction was more difficult. In case a reagent does not meet particular analytical needs, the methods of evaporationredissolution or extraction could be used